Sophie Pasteur 95%

To call Sophie Pasteur a "chef" is like calling Leonardo da Vinci a "house painter." At 34, the Lyon-born gastronome has become the enfant terrible of the conservation artisanale (artisanal preservation) movement. Her medium is the terrine; her palette, the forgotten vegetable.

For Sophie Pasteur, the past isn’t a foreign country. It’s the only place that still tastes real. Sophie Pasteur’s “Temps Retrouvé” tasting menu opens for reservations on the first Tuesday of every month. Bring patience, and an open mind about mold. sophie pasteur

“He wasn't famous,” Pasteur laughs, wiping flour from her apron. “He was just meticulous. He wrote down every brine, every salt ratio, every temperature for smoking a ham in the winter of 1887.” To call Sophie Pasteur a "chef" is like

Unlike modern recipes, these called for ingredients that agribusiness has declared obsolete: poire à la cuite (a cooking pear that turns ruby red when heated), carotte de Créances (a salt-tolerant carrot that tastes of oyster shells), and l’ail rose de Lautrec (a pink garlic so delicate it disappears on the tongue). It’s the only place that still tastes real

Her most famous dish, served only at her three-table “laboratory” in Lyon, is called Le Temps Retrouvé (Time Regained). It consists of a single anchovy, cured for exactly one year, served on a shard of burnt sourdough. It is, diners report, an umami bomb that tastes like the sea and the salt marshes of Guérande.